It can certainly get hot enough to boil water. I"ve worked on anvils on larger thumblatch forgings that the anvil indeed needs to be cooled periodically. My anvils are all in the HRC60 range, and much better quality steel. These welds also broke fairly fast and we found out why someone was pouring water over the red hot weld (and thus hardening it ! ). We also found spots were it was almost HRC 60 right before and after a weld. The hardest rail we've found was around HRC 50. However they do not become near as uniform or as hard as a proper carbon steel that is heat treated correctly. They work harden by plastic deformation, and as such make a good durable rail - the more trains cruise over them the harder they get. It isn't very different from O1, just a lot less consistent and O1 has some vanadium and tungsten to make it a better knife steel. The quality is also the reason very few damascus makers will use it in pattern welded steel, although it makes nice dark lines due to the manganese content. You could get lucky and have a nice and clean piece of which you could make knives. As such, I wouldn't use it for knives or things with delicate cutting edges but it's good for axes and splitting mauls. So bad even that Railroad track seems to absorb moisture if you put in in a bucket of water. Lots of inclusions casting artefacts and variability in quality. However it's a fairly "dirty" steel for all intends and purposes. These are mangenese-carbon bound, as the typical modern RR track is essentially C80 or 1080 steel with about 1% manganese and between 0.15 to 0.6 % silicon inclusions. Well I know a fair bit about workhardening in railroad track type steels. Why make uneducated guess when the information is available? HOWEVER work hardening is NOT a replacement for proper heat treating and proper alloy choice as you can get much higher hardness values through Heat Treatment than work hardening. Some alloys work harden faster than others. Having the apprentice plannish the face of a softer anvil to harden it up is described in some older smithing books. Working hot steel on the face of your anvil will not produce dislocation climb and thus removing work hardening from the face because it's not hot enough either. I've known professional smiths whose large work was such that they boiled the kettle for their lunch tea on the anvil but still under 451 degF. Working hot steel on your anvil will not draw temper on it UNLESS you get it up to over around 500-600 degF hot enough that if you place a piece of paper on it it will burst into flame. 1.1: Introduced.Working hot steel on the face of your anvil will not harden it as the face has to be hot enough to glow before any of the types of quenching can work. History 1.2.3: New hardmode ore is slightly harder to craft. Used to craft See also Iron Anvil recipes for the inherited recipes.Īmmunition recipes Result Cursed Arrow (15) In worlds which have Orichalcum Ore instead of Mythril Ore, the Orichalcum Anvil serves the same purpose for the same recipes.Ĭrafting Recipe Crafting Station Like the Hellforge and Adamantite Forge, the Mythril Anvil performs all the functions of its predecessor in addition to the new recipes seen below without taking up any more space, making it a straight upgrade. Internal Item ID: 525 Internal Tile ID: 134 The Mythril Anvil is an upgraded Anvil forged using 10 Mythril Bars at a normal Anvil. Used to craft items from mythril, orichalcum, adamantite, and titanium bars
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